This is an older picure of an earlier all steel Smart Trailer USA, the only difference being the steel bed and ramps.

Seen here are the license plate light and side running light.  These are standard on all our trailers.

Loading and securing your smart - When you drive your smartie onto the trailer, you will feel resistance as the front wheels reach the end of the ramps and start to go onto the trailer. Just press on the accelerator a bit and go on. Then drive to the front of the trailer until you bump into the wheel stop. You may bounce back just a bit at first, so ease on up again and when you touch the stop, pull up the parking break and put the transmission in Park, Open the door and exit the vehicle.

The tie down bracket and ratchets are also shown here. To drive up on the Smart Trailer USA, ALWAYS MAKE SURE THE TRAILER IS ATTACHED TO THE RV. If it is not, you will simply push the trailer!  Likewise, if you plan to leave the smart on the trailer, be sure to put both the front and optional rear jacks down before disconnecting the trailer. In like manner, ALWAYS MAKE SURE THE TRAILER IS ATTACHED TO THE RV BEFORE BACKING THE CAR OFF THE TRAILER.

At right you can see how the "basket" straps fit over the tire. Then connect the rear hook through the tie down bracket, which pulls up from the deck to do so. Next, feed the basket strap through the ratchet and crank it a few times, until the tension on the front of the tire strap equals that of the rear strap. Finally, lace the extra strap in the ratchet to accommodate the extra material. All this takes about 3 minutes per wheel!

NOTE:

1. Model ST42
2. • While the two front baskets are adequate to secure the car, should you also want to secure the rear, its very simple.  From any hardware store, pick up two hefty nylon tie-down straps with hooks and ratchets. Put one hook in the rear tie-down, the other onto a rear wheel spoke. Tighten the ratchets and stop worrying.
3. Models STXL
4. • It is recommended that larger vehicles be secured at the rear as well as the front.  Obtain a heavy duty tie-down strap, with ratchet.  Attach one side to a rear tie-down loop.  Then attach the strap to the vehicle's rear tow hook (or ring), and also to the opposite rear tie-down loop.  Tighten the ratchet. 
   • We do not provide the tie-down strap since the strap length will vary with the type of vehicle.

Here you can see the ramps pulled out. Both ramps are stored inside the trailer, under the bed. There is an "L" shaped piece on the front of each to prevent the ramp from sliding all the way out accidentally, but it can be lifted over the edge for maintenance. There is a safety pin on each ramp. Each pin is held on by a braided wire to prevent loss while in travel mode.

Trailer Maintenance

Check the tire lug nuts after the first 100 miles of driving.  Then just a simple 2-point lubrication every 3000 miles and a check of the bearings every 6000 miles is all the maintenance required. Or, just take the trailer along when you have the motorhome serviced and have the techs take care of it.

Aluminum Construction - We get the question as to why we build the trailer frame in steel and not aluminum. We can build one for you in aluminum, but the cost will be almost double due to cost of materials alone.

Now, however, we provide aluminum ramps and decking as standard. This reduces weight and maintenance while maintaining equal strength.

Dual 15 inch steel wheels (white) - We do not use 13 inch wheels often found on other trailers, although they would work.

We choose to use the larger wheel, which rotates slower and thus runs cooler. The tires, bearings and camber axle will all last longer than with the smaller wheels and tires. Think about all those boat trailers seen alongside the road, with flats or burned out bearings...